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Guide to Europe >> France >> Marseille Marseille |
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Marseille came into being some 2,600 years ago by Greek sailors and therefore can claim to be France's oldest city. It is the capital of the Mediterranean region, France's second largest city with over one million inhabitants and third largest metropolitan area. It is home to a vast commercial harbor and a hub of trades from the sea.
The city of Marseille is a melting pot of cultures from all over the world with a vast majority of the Marsellaise being descendants of the waves of immigrants that arrived in the early 19th century. Among the ethnic groups of Marseille are Armenians, Spaniards, Italians, Greeks, Arabs, Jews, Russians and North Africans. Approximately 25 per cent of Marseille’s population is of North African origin, mostly Algerian, and Tunisian. The Jewish community is also the third largest in Europe. As you meander through the city, you may see Algerian dancehalls, small ethnic restaurants with colorful signs in varying languages and Jewish synagogues. The African market district L'Univers Aliemelaire, 36, rue d'Aubagne, sells everything from two-foot-high hookah pipes to loose tea and Marseille soap.
The city organizes many festivals and concerts throughout the year, with the intent to continue cultivating all the ethic groups which have evolved in Marseilles over many centuries of immigrants. Its festive Mediterranean atmosphere has made Marseille a worthwhile visit for tourists.
The old part of the city is very interesting, and is best seen on foot. It’s hilly with lots of steps, so sneakers are a must. Taxis are expensive but recommended late at night when the streets are empty, and in certain potentially dangerous neighborhoods.
College Backpacking recommends spending three days in Marseille. During festivals, it may be advantageous to stay here a bit longer. Be sure to mix the islands and beaches in with the museums and abbey. But be careful when experiencing the city’s nightlife and travel in groups. |
| Tourist Sites |
Musée d’histoire de Marseille
Address: Centre Bourse, entrance on Rue de Bir-Hakeim, Vieux Port, Marseille
Hours: June-Sept., Mon.-Sat. 10-7; Oct.-May., Tues.-Sun. 10-5
Tickets: €3
There are a number of significant Roman ruins in Marseilles. One of the best examples can be seen at the Musée d’histoire de Marseille and its neighboring Jardin de Vestiges. In the Musée d’histoire, there is displayed a recovered wreck of a Roman cargo boat, its 3rd-century wood amazingly preserved, and the hull of a Greek boat dating from the 4th century BC.
The Jardin de Vestiges features ancient ruins excavated beginning in 1967. You may wander through the area where the excavations are taking place. It contains remains of the fortification of the ancient Greek city. Admission to the Jardin de Vestiges is free.
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Basilique de Notre Dame de la Garde
To protect Marseille from the armies of Charles the Fifth, François I built a fort in 1524 on the highest point in Marseille, which, along with the Château d'If, formed a nautical defense. This fort on Garde hill served as the foundation for the present basilica which was built in 1853. The silhouette of the cathedral seen from afar is inseparable from the image of Marseille. Pilgrims to the basilica increased in number. In the middle of the 19th century, the Basilica of Notre Dame became too small to accommodate the numerous pilgrims who journeyed there.
The sanctuary is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Many predominantly gold mosaics with multicolored marbles dazzle the interior of the church, with interesting bronze doors and an unusually high altar. The belfry houses a vast golden Madonna and child, visible from half the city. From the terrace, in front of the sanctuary, there is a magnificent view of Marseille spread out before you. |
Harbor Islands
Riou Island
The summit of this island provides a panoramic view of the calanques (white cliffs and breathtaking little fjords). A choice of several footpaths can be taken to explore this wild island that is currently uninhabited. On the top of one of the hills is the ruins of a watchtower built in the 12th Century to warn Marseille of possible attacks from Barbarians.
Large and Small Conglué Islands
In 1952 Jacque Cousteau's ship "Calypso" took up residence at the large Conglué. After several attempts, the divers discovered the most significant Roman shipwreck in the world. Thousands of pieces of tableware were found as well as a vast array of decorative wine storage containers. Since then, other shipwrecks in the area have also been discovered, which creates quite a sunken treasure.
Jarre Island
The Jarre Island has been one of the primary places in the Mediterranean where trading ships dropped anchor for over 20 centuries. It was here that in 1720 the "Grand Saint Antoine", a ship carrying the plague from Smyrna to Marseille, was burnt and sunk.
Maïre Island
This island has sharp limestone peaks that have caused so many shipwrecks over the centuries. The top of the steep cliffs provides an outstanding view of the calanques. The island is uninhabited.
Planier Lighthouse Island
Five successive lighthouses have been erected on the small island since the Middle Ages. They were built to guide sailors and to warn Marseille of the arrival of invaders from the Barbary Islands. The present lighthouse dates from 1959. On this island a magnificent column is built of stone, which dates back 115 million years. It has the unusual ability of capturing the sun’s rays and expelling impurities at night. It is for this reason that the lighthouse has remained perfectly white. |
Château d'If
Address: Archipel du Frioul
In the 16th century, François I decided to build the fortress because of its strategic military position. In a very short time, the fortress changed its purpose and became a prison. Rebels and rebellious galley slaves stayed there for long periods, and starting in 1689 Protestants were thrown in masses into the unsanitary pits where many of them died. However, the fortress provided decent living conditions to distinguished prisoners.
The most famous prisoner was José Custodio Faria, who was made famous in The Count of Monte Cristo. The hole which he dug in the wall of one of the cells is still very visible today. The Château d'If can be visited by a boat service and welcomes more than 90,000 visitors every year |
Memorial des Camps de la Mort
Address: quai de la Tourette, Marseille, FR 13002
Metro: Vieux Port
Hours: Wed.-Sun. 10:00am-5:00pm
This Holocaust memorial depicts eyewitness accounts from concentration camps, a vast collection of photographs from Auschwitz, and photos of the evacuation, deportation and destruction of Marseille's historic quarters. The urns containing ashes and soil from 18 concentration and death camps are the most disturbing. |
St. Victor Abbey
Archaeological evidence of Saint Victor’s Abbey goes back to the end of the 5th century. In 1020, a Catalan monk, Isarn, began an extensive building and constructed the first upper church. The main altar was consecrated in 1040. Then from the end of the 12th century to the 13th century, the abbey was entirely rebuilt. Gradually, monastic life diminished and the abbey was secularized by order of the pope in 1739.
The French Revolution transformed the church into a fodder store, a prison, and a barracks. The abbey was again used for worship and restored in the 19th century. The church was made into a minor basilica in 1934 by Pope Pius XI.
Every year at Candlemas, the second of February, there is a pilgrimage to Saint Victor. In the morning, a procession leaves the Old Port for Saint Victor along Rue Sainte. The black Madonna that is kept in the crypt is arrayed in a green coat and is presented to the public on the square in front of the church. The archbishop blesses her and celebrates mass. |
Beaches
The coast of Marseille features over 50 beaches. The Marseille coast alternates between rock, sand and shingle.
Calanques, a series of magnificent white cliffs and beautiful little fjords, is a paradise for hikers, rock climbers, and scuba divers. It is also where the world's oldest underwater cave was discovered - the Grotte Henri Cosquer, depicting handprints dating back approximately 27,000 years. Access to the Calanques in spring and summer prohibits car traffic. Access: Bus lines 19 and 20, bus no. 21 to Luminy then walk to Sugiton, walk the Calanques along the Gardiole and Cassis hiking trails.
The Bain des Dames and Bonne Brise coves are small beaches of sand and pebbles near the city with no supervision and no facilities. But on the up side, it has an unparalleled view of Marseille harbor and it also provides a restaurant. Access: bus line 19
Pointe Rouge beach, the largest sandy beach, offers restaurants, restrooms and play areas. It is supervised in summer, has a first aid post, showers and a clothing store. Access: bus line 19.
Prado Seaside Park Every year, three and a half million visitors enjoy the lawns, the rest and play areas and the internationally famous skateboard track that are open to the public. The many activities of this seafront park are a draw to visitors any time of year. It includes: Bonneveine Cove and Vieille Chapelle, Borély Beach, L’Huveaune Beach and the Prado South and North Beaches. The Prado beaches are often considered Europe's most beautiful coastal areas, and a favorite for kite flyers, windsurfers and roller skaters. It is supervised in summer, has first aid posts, a clothing store, restrooms, showers, play areas, refreshment stand,s and disabled access.
In summer, a stadium is built on the beaches with stands open to everyone. This is a venue for international sports competitions and sporting and cultural activities for children and adults supervised by certified instructors. Access: bus lines 83 and 19.
Catalans beach is the home of the Catalans Beach Volleyball Club, which organizes an international tournament every summer. Access: bus line 83.
Corbière beaches are to the north, with their municipal water sports centre and landscaped gardens. Pedestrian access is by a path cut into the rock and steps. They are not very deep, partially shaded, made of fine sand and pebbles, and are equipped with restrooms, showers, a clothing store, refreshment stand and play area with volleyball. From here there is one of the best views of the Marseille coast. Sporting and cultural activities for children and adults are supervised by certified instructors. Access: bus line 35 to the terminus.
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Bastille Day France’s national holiday, is celebrated with an impressive fireworks display on Vieux Port on July 14, as well as dancing at the Cour d’Estienne d’ Orves. The evening before Bastille Day, the town enjoys a folk parade and ball. Guests from all over the world attend the exciting event, which includes many cultural offerings.
Admission to the fireworks display and dancing at the Cour d’Estienne d’Orves is free of charge. The fireworks display and dancing kick off at 10pm. |
| Restaurants |
Place Thiars This quant little neighborhood lies in the heart of the former Arsenal quarter. Renovated in the 1980s, the area has been reserved for tourists and locals who frequent the many restaurants, cafés, art galleries, and businesses and who appreciate the Italian charm of the neighborhood. |
| Tours |
| Transportation |
Intercity
Flights: For backpackers looking to skip the wait to Paris, Lyon, and Corsica, Aéroport Marseille-Provence (MRS) provides quick flights to those destinations.
Trains: Gare St-Charles will get backpackers onto trains heading towards Paris (3hr), Lyon (1.5hr), and Nice (2.75hr).
Buses: Gare Routière is near the train station on pl. Victor Hugo and services Avignon (2hr), Cannes (3hr), and Nice (2.75hr).
Ferries: To take a ferry to Corsica or Sardinia, head to 61 bd. des Dames for SNCM. Hours are M-F 8am-6pm, Sa 8am-5:30pm. |
Local
Public Transportation: RTM operates the metro, tram and bus lines. There are two metro lines, 2 tram lines, and over 140 bus routes to get those backpacking Marseille around town. The metro runs from 5am-9m M-Th and 5am-12:30am F-Su. Consider purchasing a Liberty Card for €20, which covers 10 trips.
Taxis: Taxis depart from Gare St-Charles. |
| Night Life |
L'A-Côté
Address: 5, rue de l'Arc
Transportation: Metro Estrangin-Prefecture
Hours: 7:00pm- 2:00am
This bar is located in a cave which attracts a hip crowd. Locals and visitors love to come to this bar for its convenient location and diverse entertainment as well. Visitors come to enjoy the music that may be featured that evening which ranges from techno to rock. Live concerts are also performed here periodically. Drinks are reasonably priced, and the service is very accommodating. |
L'Intermédiare
Address: 63, place Jean-Jaurès, Marseille, FR 13006
Transportation: Metro Cours Julien
If you are in the mood to hear some alternative rock or acoustic music, L'Intermédiare is the place to go and is popular among the younger crowds. Visitors can have a few drinks, shoot some pool, and enjoy a concert featuring the region's latest music. |
La Caravelle
Address: 34, quai du Port, Marseille, FR 13002
This is a small bar that is very popular among the locals. Evening entertainment usually consists of live jazz. Patrons of La Caravelle enjoy a magnificent view of the harbor from the terrace. |
Le Trolleybus
Address: 24 quai de Rive Neuve, Bompard
This is the disco in town for wilder denizens. The club's draw is its different dance "grottos" offering techno, salsa, and funk. |
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